The converting and scratchbuilding of figures can range from simple moving the arm of a standard figure, through using various parts cut from standard figures to create a different one, to the sculpting of a totally new one.

Research

If you are going to create your own figure or convert an existing one your first step is to plan what you are intending to do.

Read all the Discworld books that the character has appeared in and make notes of all descriptive passages. If you intend to put the character in a specific situation, i.e. a diorama of the three witches at the start of Wyrd Sisters, note the whole of the passage for other items that will need to be modeled. Then look at the available illustrations of the figure(s) and see how they compare with your prepared description.

Once you have a clear image of the character you are intending to model look for a figure, or parts of figures, that resembles the character, whether this is an "official" Clarecraft figure or one of another manufacturers. The closer the match of the figure or parts the less you have to sculpt yourself.

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Building the Figure

It is easier to remove the flash from figures before you cut parts off with a razor saw. The razor saw will give a straight edge to the cut and you are less likely to damage yourself than if you tried to force a knife through any thickness of metal. With parts that will be fitting together file the join edges flat, then drill and pin and fill any resulting gap when the glue has dried.

The remaining parts of a butchered figure should be kept in a sealable box or tin, you never know when you will need it for a future creation.

Heads are the easiest to change provided that you are careful where you cut on the neck. Some modelling may be required to replace details around the collar and neck. Arm can be bend to a different angle or the complete arm or part of or hand can be replaced from another figure. Depending on the original figures you may have to swap both arms or model one to get matching sleeve or cuff details. With legs cut at the waist above or below the belt. Pin all joints.

If you are going to scratch build a limb glue a length of wire into the body as an armature to give the modeling material something to support it. If you find it difficult to get putty to stick to a plain wire armature, wrap thin wire around the length of this main wire, held on with super glue as it will give the putty some thing additional to grip onto. If making an arm try to find a suitable hand to use as they can be difficult to model.

When sculpting parts don't try to do it all in one go. Build up the area to a basic shape, let it dry and then add the detailing. On limbs build the shape up over the armature then add creases, buttons etc. the following day.

I have always used Milliput for my sculpting but there are other similar products available. Also you don't have to sculpt everything, use paper and card for straps and belts, and wine top foil makes good straps that are not against a body i.e. horse reins as it can be bent and will keep its shape. It also makes realistic capes as it is easy to put in the creases but its drawback is that it remains pliable and can be damaged by handling so only use on display figures. Wood can be carved into shapes and added. I made Littlebottom's pigeon box by sticking narrow strips of thin wood to a small block of wood and after drilling a few air holes left it in the natural wood finish.

Spikes and teeth can be modelled separatly, when dry add to the body and blend in. They are less likely to get damaged by accident this way. Small balls od dried putty or even sand and pebbles can be added to a creatures skin to represent warts and the like and knife cuts on the surface can give a wrinkly effect. Also try a 5 minute epoxy glue. Put a little on the end of a pin and dab onto the surface. It will leave a little mound.

When you have finished an area a coat of primer should show up imperfections and allow you to make any corrections as you progress.

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Other Hints

Milliput - if two figures/items need to be modeled together but would be easier to paint separatly use a coat of talcum power to stop them sticking together. If one part is already completed cling film can be used to allow a freshly moulded part to be removed.

Paper and card are useful for adding details like straps and belts and can be rolled round the ends of swords to create the grip, etc..

I have cast small parts with glassfibre resin and plaster after making a mould in plastercine with a reasonable success. It is possible to buy latex to make moulds out of, from which resin or metal parts can be cast but the cost of starting up this type of venture has always put me off. You shouldn't copy manfactures figures as they own the copyright so only make copies of thing you have created your self. Use milliput or air drying clay to make your original. It needs to be hard so that you can press it into the plastecine.

Make a small open box from Lego or similar building blocks to suround your block of plastercine. Make an impression of the item to be copied. Mix the resin or plaster as instructed. With resin pour a little in at a time removing air bubbles as you go with a pin or cocktail stick. For the plaster use a soft wet paintbrush to "paint" a thinner mixture of plaster to cover the inside of the mould. Tap the mould often to release air bubbles until the mixture begins to set. Leave to dry, overnight if possible then remove the Lego and carefully break apart the plastercine. If you are making a lot of copies of the same thing the plastercine can be removed as soon as the molding material is set and reused but there is more risk of damaging the casting.

Spears:- use brass wire of the diameter you want. Hammer one end of the wire against a hard and smooth piece of metal or one of the small anvils you can buy, until you have a flat piece at the end. Trim the sides of this flat to the shape of the spear head. File the cuts to make them smooth then clip the wire to the right length. The cut may need to be rounded with the file as well. If the figure has a open hand bend the fingers round using a pair of pliers with a padding of rag or paper to protect the casting details. If the figure is already holding a weapon cut this away and clean up the cut fist before drilling a hole for the shaft. Drill from both sides if you are worried about not getting the hole straight. Superglue in place

Bows and Crossbows. These very rarely have the strings moulded on and if they have it will be of an over scale thickness. Add with fine fuse wire, 3amp. Wrap around one end and fix with super glue. When dry stretch to the other end, or to bowman's hand if firing. Fix with superglue. when dry wrap around the end and cut before glueing. Remember that bows come in various shapes and sizes and that they take on a different shape when drawn. Games Workshop are now including arrows in some of their plastic regiment sets which can be used. If you need to show a lot of arrows you will have to make your own. Use a short lenght of wire, making a point the same as for a spear above, but smaller. Add flights of paper or card.

Guns - where the material is thick enough drill out all barrels a 1/4". Cannon don't forget all the extras that most model miss out, ramrod, buckets, shot gunpower barrels, etc.

Fabrics can be represented with tissue paper saoked in PVA glue and formed while wet the the shape required. Flags and standards can be made this way but benefit from extra support depending on the final size. Sandwiching a layer of thin metal foil like that from the old style tooth paste tubes or wine bottle tops, flatten out to remove the wrinkles, between tissue paper will give you a flag that can be modelled into creases and folds and have a textured surface. Paint the flag design, fold to the shape required and then highlight and shadow as usual. Fix to the pole and add cords and tassles.

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